In 2012, Angela and I spent 3 months canoeing. We worked our way across the Magnetewan, Noganosh park, Island Lake and Barrens Conservation area, and all the crown land in between. We took the time to explore every trail, creek, portage and back country lake along the way.
I mention this because it turns out that's the last canoe trip Angela and I would take for the next 3 years. We bought our property on Clear Lake that winter, and when the ice thawed in 2013 we devoted the next 3 years to building our tiny house and the Clear Lake Eco Retreat. Although we've spent much of those 3 years canoeing the 2.5 kms back and forth to the Lost Channel Marina and paddling folks out into the surrounding back country on fishing trips, Angela and I have not taken the time to go on a long distance canoe camping trip since 2012, that is, until now.
I mention this because it turns out that's the last canoe trip Angela and I would take for the next 3 years. We bought our property on Clear Lake that winter, and when the ice thawed in 2013 we devoted the next 3 years to building our tiny house and the Clear Lake Eco Retreat. Although we've spent much of those 3 years canoeing the 2.5 kms back and forth to the Lost Channel Marina and paddling folks out into the surrounding back country on fishing trips, Angela and I have not taken the time to go on a long distance canoe camping trip since 2012, that is, until now.
Day 1
making the connection
We set out from our backyard on the north shore of Clear Lake in the morning. Heading south, we quickly came upon the 400 meter portage into Cross Lake (the nicer 100 meter portage has been useless since November of last year when the beaver dam between Cross and Index broke, leaving the water in Cross down about 3 ft, and the portage high and dry). Another short sunny paddle saw us to the southern shore of the western arm of Cross, where the 'Courtney Lake Hunt Club' keeps a few boats. We watched an adolescent bear scamper up the opposite shore. The portage on the hunt club ATV trail is easy at it's first 100 meters south, but then the ATV trail becomes so rutted and abused as to be unfit for walking. It is for this reason that we decided to follow an older overgrown trail to a ravine where we often make the walk into Courtney Lake.
As seen on the above map, our trail to Courtney Lake spits you out on the water just as it intersects the Blair/Brown township border. The exact divide is, in fact, indicated with a metal survey marker which we were lucky enough to stumble upon.
As seen on the above map, our trail to Courtney Lake spits you out on the water just as it intersects the Blair/Brown township border. The exact divide is, in fact, indicated with a metal survey marker which we were lucky enough to stumble upon.
Two more kilometers east through Courtney Lake brought us to our first major hurdle: a 1500 meter portage to Smokey Lake. There is no portage trail. There was an ATV trail in the past, but that too has long since grown over. All that remains is meadow, swamp and cliffs. In years past we attempted the same walk from the other end. We had started on Smokey Lake, but gave up before reaching Courtney.
If you ever get the urge to try this portage, don't. It's no fun. For us that day it wasn't about the fun. It was about making the connection.
If you ever get the urge to try this portage, don't. It's no fun. For us that day it wasn't about the fun. It was about making the connection.
Four and a half hours later we had made it to the larger waters of Smokey Lake inside Noganosh Park. We paddled briefly against a strong headwind and set up camp as dusk approached. Our hard work was rewarded with a beautiful sunset and a deep, deep sleep.
Stay tuned for days 2,3, and 4...
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